Flickus flackus flum

Jacobs tankar om och med kvalitet

Entries in the Category “Restauranger”

Grill del Mundo

written by jacob, on Apr 18, 2015 2:53:00 AM.

Today a new restaurant opened in Göteborg and they managed to do so with a bang. Grill del Mundo is a restaurant that will change between different national cuisines with 4 month intervals. The restaurant is large, seating about 50 people in the upstairs area (with a patio being built for summer use) and room for another 100, or so, guests downstairs. Upstairs is currently serving Persian food , with the downstairs doing Korean inspired fusion.

On opening night, the place was packed with people. This produced some problems with the service, though the kitchen kept pace with the incoming orders. We were seated on bar stools next to the kitchen, with a full view of what was going on in there. We each got a glass of champagne to start the evening. After a while we placed our orders. Grill del Mundo has a wide varitey of smaller dished that can be had either as starters or as a set of dishes making up a main course. There are also a few main courses and a series of menus, where the chefs pick out the best dishes for the day. We decided to go for oysters, squid and bone marrow with bleak roe.

After this, things started to go a bit crazy. We wanted our oysters to show up first of all the dishes. They go so well with champagne. What we got was a lovely squid dish - fried squid in a lemon and miso sauce. This turned out not to be the squid we had ordered, but a lovely present from the kitchen. Next the squid we had ordered showed up, together with the bone marrow. The squid was nice, but not quite as good as the first squid dish. It was a little on the spicy side for my taste and didn’t work with the champagne at all. With the place packed, the waiting staff was too busy to notice our needs for a different wine.

After eating squid for a bit, our oysters showed up, exactly as I like them - naturelle, extremely fresh with just a bit of lemon. They went fabulously well with the champagne.

Quite fortunately, the bone marrow was served in a very hot skillet, so it was just the right temperature after we finished the oysters. If you have never eaten bone marrow with bleak roe and a bit of mayonaise, this one is worth a trip. The blending of the bone marrow melting in your mouth with the saltiness of the roe is quite sensational. However, it needs a different wine than champagne, and I know that the sommeliers are very capable at finding the right one. We had this dish served by the same crew at Retardo, a pop-up restaurant that was run as a prequel to Grill del Mundo in the fall of 2014. Finally, we had a platter of sashimi, with very fresh, lovely fish.

The master chef in the downstairs kitchen is Kalle Grafström, whom we have followed from restaurant to restaurant for 15 years now. We first met him at Café Japan, where he was a sushi chef. Next, we found him running Dozo, a restaurant of his own out in the suburb of Örgryte. While he managed to fill it with customers, it was too small to be a viable business. Still, it was where I had the best squid of my life. Next, he spent a summer working Brännö Värdshus, and even though it was quite a few years ago, people sill talk about the summer when the food there was exceptional. After a few years, first as a private chef and then a chef and kitchen manager at St Jörgens Park resort, he spent a summer running Oceanen, serving beer and hearty Normandy food. After that followed Retardo, where they had a different menu every night the restaurant was open, trying out recipies for the opening of Grill del Mundo. Kalles cooking is based on his superb knowledge of how to find the freshest and best ingredients, especially fish and shellfish. His dishes are not complex, but he expertly blends fish or meat with asian style sauces for astonishing effects. He makes his own kimchi. His blend of tastes strongly remind me of Japan and Korea, but there is a clear Scandinavian touch as well as a personal touch to his cooking.

Despite the problems getting the right beverages, we had a wonderful meal. There are many other interesting things on the menu for us to explore, so we will soon be back.


written by jacob, on May 13, 2013 12:02:10 AM.

Ibland träffar man på sådant som inte ska kunna finnas. På Kungsgatan i Göteborg, ett stenkast väster om domkyrkan ligger en nyöppnad restaurang med det poetiskt klingande namnet Superrullband. Restaurangen är nyinredd i ljusa färger. Bardisken vid ingången är illröd och upplyst inifrån. Lokalen domineras av enormt långa rullband för servering av sushi enligt japansk snabbmatsformel. Man serverar också sushi enligt modellen att man tar det man vill ha och betalar per tallrik man har konsumerat. Sushin är inte bättre än den man får på massor av andra ställen i Göteborg. Inte sämre heller för den delen.

Så långt är det inget speciellt märkvärdigt med restaurangen. Vräkig miljö med jätterullband och halvtaskig sushi finns här och där i världen. Själv brukar jag undvika sådana ställen. Sushi ska vara nyuppskuren av kocken, inte prefabricerad en lång stund tidigare.

Det märkliga börjar med att det finns en meny med kinesisk mat förutom sushi-bandet. Den har massor av smårätter, inklusive dumplings och dim sum, plus diverse mer traditionell svensk kinamat. Om man beställer från den här menyn så får man den bästa kinesiska mat jag har smakat i Sverige, till mycket rimliga priser. En stor del av menyn har dessutom Happy Hour från kl 15 till kl 20, måndag till torsdag. Happy Hour innebär halva priset på maten.

Normalt är jag inte speciellt förtjust i dumpling av den nordkinesiska varianten. De som kallas Pot Stickers när de steks, men Superrullbands variant är elegantare och godare än vad jag har smakat tidigare. Vi har också testat deras avsmakningstallrik med 3 olika smårätter och ångat bröd av 2 olika sorter. Mycket gott. En annan smårätt som jag vill framhålla är friterad jätteräka i frityrsmet av panko och mandlar.

Sedan vi upptäckte stället för en vecka sedan har jag varit där 3 gånger, medan Laura har gått dit för lunch ytterligare ett par gånger. Det finns fortfarande fler spännande saker att utforska på menyn. Det lär bli fler gånger.

Tre små rum

written by jacob, on Jan 18, 2010 2:39:00 PM.

This is not a restaurant, it is a small pub in the basement on Kristinelundsgatan, 3 blocks away from Avenyn. The pub is very cozy and quiet, even when full on a Saturday night. This is very much accomplished with rugs and other sound dampening materials on the walls and the background music being kept at a very comfortable level. The pub only serves good quality beer and it has signs by the bar warning you against asking for Heineken, Carlsberg or any of the other industrial excuses for beers. It carries a full assortment of local and regional beers, like Ocean, Dugges and Grebbestad. It also does really well in the assortment of Witbier, Belgian beers and real British ales. This is mainly a place for a regular clientele of beer aficionados, and the proprietor can sometimes be a bit abrasive. Nevertheless, unless you are there to chat with the staff, that doesn't matter much. Their knowledge about beer and the assortment are both excellent. Prices are naturally somewhat higher than for the standard assortment, but not high enough to keep you away.


written by jacob, on Jan 18, 2010 1:41:00 PM.

This restaurant is a new initiative from Björn Persson, proprietor of the well known Kock & Vin and Björns Bar. The restaurant is located on Geijersgatan, close to the upper end of Avenyn and it was opened in September 2009. To everyone's surprise it was an instant success. What was planned to be a quiet place for family dinners has become the place to be seen in Göteborg. The restaurant is decorated in red and gray and looks quite cool. The space between tables is a bit cramped, which means that when the restaurant is full, which is almost all the time, the noise level is rather high. Don't go here if you want to have a quiet conversation over dinner. The menu is quite short. There is a set menu for the night with 3 courses. For a surcharge you can exchange the main course of the menu from a list of 2-3 choices. There is also a set of about 10 smaller dishes available. We have eaten the set menu several times and it has a very good price/performance ratio. The specialties of the house are creamy soup starters and main dishes built around meats that have been cooked for a long time at low temperatures. Desserts are ok, but nothing to write home about. The wine list is short with prices slightly above the norm and quality substantially above average. The service is usually quite acceptable though sometimes the pressure of the crowds can make you wait for too long to get attention. A feature is that the restaurant serves food until quite late, which is a real boon if you have been to a performance at the nearby City Theater (Stadsteatern) or the Concert House, and feel a bit peckish.

Svarta Oliver

written by jacob, on Dec 22, 2009 7:40:00 PM.

Svarta Oliver is located at the crossing between Chalmersgatan and Kristinelundsgatan, two blocks away from Avenyn. It is a cozy restaurant with bare red brick walls in the basement of the house. The kitchen is Medierranean, with a Greek focus, without going to the extreme Souvlaki - Bouzouki - Retsina cliché. The menu is quite substantial and prices are moderate with a few dishes being quite cheap. The wine list is fairly short, but the selection is competent and reasonably priced. The restaurant is open Sundays, which is good to know, because the selection is quite limited those days.

I had some oven baked Feta cheese and Mousaka at our visit. Both were really good, with the Mousaka being about the best one I have ever had. The latter dish is among the cheap ones, where you can get a reasonable meal for 99 SEK. Other people around the table had Grilled Mushrooms, Swordfish, Deep Fried Squid Rings, Chicken and Beef Steak. Everyone was quite happy with their meals.

In my opinion, Svarta Oliver is currently the best deal in town for Greek style food.

Bliss Resto

written by jacob, on Dec 16, 2009 12:52:00 AM.

Bliss is located on Magasinsgatan, at Makarna Todds Plats. The restaurant is a bit anonymously furnished. It is a really good place to eat lunch, and this evening we decided to try their tapas. What we got was an assortment of quite small tapas dishes. A lamb chorizo on a cauliflower puré and fried mushrooms were very good, while the cold meats and olives were just up to our (fairly high) standards. Unfortunately a dish of mushroom soup and one of artichokes never showed up (though they did on the bill). This meant that we were still hungry and ordered some food from the main menu. A linguine in a pesto sauce turned out to be a huge portion of quite decent pasta. A chanterelle soup and scallops with chorizo went down well across the table. Along the way we had an incident with a glass of bad wine, which was not replaced as willingly as I would have expected. Their Margarita was good though. All together, I consider the tapas to be good and overpriced, while the main dishes are decent and quite cheap. My pasta was priced at 99 SEK, and it would be a large meal, even for a hungry student. The wine list is not very impressive, and the service was not as prompt as I would have expected with the fairly slow business this evening.

This leaves me with quite mixed feelings; while the food was good, the rest of the experience was quite unimpressive.

Hello Monkey

written by jacob, on Dec 10, 2009 12:04:00 AM.

This restaurant is situated near the southern end of Magasinsgatan, inside the moat in central Göteborg. It has a small ground floor with a bar/open kitchen and tall bar tables. Downstairs in the basement is a larger dining room. Both floors are cozy and inviting. The restaurant serves Asian Fusion, with sashimi, noodles, spicy tiger prawns, beef tateki and various other dishes. They also do Dim Sum - little treasures in the Cantonese kitchen. Hello Monkey has its own modern version of Dim Sum and goes more for the fried and deep fried variety than the steamed dishes.

We started with a Japanese tartrar, which was excellent and continued with the set menu of Dim Sum. We got steamed potstickers, vietnamese style spring rolls, deep fried entrecote dumplings, shrimp cakes, a little cigarlike roll and plenty of greens. It was all served with 4 different dip sauces. The whole thing was excellent. We finished the meal with a white chocolate parfait, which was ok, but not up to the quality of the starter and the main dish. The prices are quite moderate and the service was quick and attentive. Since really good asian food is hard to come by in Göteborg, we will become regular visitors at Hello Monkey.

Magnus & magnus

written by jacob, on Dec 3, 2009 2:54:00 AM.

Magnus & Magnus has been my favourite restaurant for almost 10 years. It doesn't do white tablecloths and stern immaculate service, which means that it never gets top ratings from Göteborgsposten. It simply does excellent food in a laid back restaurant, with the most perfect service imaginable. It also does wine matching with the food better than any other restaurant I have visited, and that includes some of the top rated restaurants in the world. The New York times did a better job of ranking this place than anybody else, when they visited Scandinavia a couple of years ago. They had the best time of their trip at Magus & Magnus. I have managed to go to this restaurant about 40 times in the last 10 years, and almost every one of these occasions have created a memory for life. Tonight was way beyond expectations. I went to the restaurant fairly tired and weary, just expecting a decent meal and a bit of relaxation. I ended up with a highly inspiring combination of dishes and wines that will be remembered for a long time. Anders, who runs the dining room this evening makes us feel so much attended to that we don't relly notice that he serves a table with 10 people at the same time. W pick a set menu of 4 dishes and add an extra dish to it. This doesn't even cause a raised eyebrow. We ask for a wine package with a glass to go with each dish, and the wine matching couldn't be better. A viognier from Languedoc matches the terrine of langoustine perfectly. A beef carpachio is matched with an Australian Pinot Gris. Reindeer with Christmassy herbs is matched with a modern Priorat. It is all topped off with a dessert of youghurt icecream and carrots with honey marshmallows; a wonderful dessert for grownups. While Magnus & Magnus is not a cheap place, it is extremely good value for the money for anyone who cares about the taste experience more than the status factor and who thinks friendly competent service matters. If you are out to get intimidated, this is not the place to go. If you want everyone to have a good and relaxed dinner, this is one of the best places in the world.

Restaurang Meet

written by jacob, on Nov 30, 2009 12:23:00 PM.

Located on Geijersgatan, close to Götaplatsen, Meet is a cozy restaurant that is specialized in meat dishes. The food is in general very good and the prices are moderate. There is a nice assortment of starters, a fairly substantial list of main courses and a few desserts. The wine list is fairly short, but the wines are well selected for the food that is served and are among the best in their respective price category. Whoever picks the wines for the list is doing a very good job. Meet is open every day from 17:00 until fairly late. Last night we were in a mood for fish and seafood. A bleak roe and salmon starter was quite traditional, but very nice nonetheless. What was advertised as a clam chowder turned out to be a mussel chowder on a lobster base. Well executed, but not quite what was advertised. For main courses, we had a piece of halibut done in the oven, with filled pasta and a langustine/crab sauce. The pasta and the sauce were excellent while the halibut was overdone. A poached piece of trout was perfectly cooked, but again it was covered with a lobster based sauce, which managed to kill the subtle flavours of the fish.

This was not our first visit to Meet. In the past we have had their steaks which are served with your pick of side dishes and they are excellent. Especially the Texas entrecote is to be recommended. You get a high quality piece of meat at a decent price. If you pick a potato gratin or Tartiflette as one of your side dishes, you are sure not to leave the table hungry. I would dearly have liked this place to have been in business when I was a student. It is too expensive for regular visits on a student budget, but for the rare splurge after exams it would have been perfect.

Lilla Tavernan

written by jacob, on Nov 22, 2009 9:53:00 PM.

Lilla Tavernan lies on Olivedalsgatan, between Linnégatan and Vegagatan. It is a Greek restaurant that has been in business for at least 10 years. We used to go there fairly frequently when we lived nearby, but now it has been several years. We ordered mezze (smaller dishes and some Retsina to drink. The service was prompt and good and the dishes we ordered were of varying quality. We focused on octopus and squid, with the charcoal barbequed octopus being quite nice. The pickled octopus was coarse, tough and way too vinegary. The cheese filled squid was not to our taste either. Aubergine dip and squash pancakes were quite decent though and so was the bread we got with the meal. The prices are fairly modest and we paid under 250 kr/person including the wine.