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Archive for April 2015

Grill del Mundo

written by jacob, on Apr 18, 2015 2:53:00 AM.

Today a new restaurant opened in Göteborg and they managed to do so with a bang. Grill del Mundo is a restaurant that will change between different national cuisines with 4 month intervals. The restaurant is large, seating about 50 people in the upstairs area (with a patio being built for summer use) and room for another 100, or so, guests downstairs. Upstairs is currently serving Persian food , with the downstairs doing Korean inspired fusion.

On opening night, the place was packed with people. This produced some problems with the service, though the kitchen kept pace with the incoming orders. We were seated on bar stools next to the kitchen, with a full view of what was going on in there. We each got a glass of champagne to start the evening. After a while we placed our orders. Grill del Mundo has a wide varitey of smaller dished that can be had either as starters or as a set of dishes making up a main course. There are also a few main courses and a series of menus, where the chefs pick out the best dishes for the day. We decided to go for oysters, squid and bone marrow with bleak roe.

After this, things started to go a bit crazy. We wanted our oysters to show up first of all the dishes. They go so well with champagne. What we got was a lovely squid dish - fried squid in a lemon and miso sauce. This turned out not to be the squid we had ordered, but a lovely present from the kitchen. Next the squid we had ordered showed up, together with the bone marrow. The squid was nice, but not quite as good as the first squid dish. It was a little on the spicy side for my taste and didn’t work with the champagne at all. With the place packed, the waiting staff was too busy to notice our needs for a different wine.

After eating squid for a bit, our oysters showed up, exactly as I like them - naturelle, extremely fresh with just a bit of lemon. They went fabulously well with the champagne.

Quite fortunately, the bone marrow was served in a very hot skillet, so it was just the right temperature after we finished the oysters. If you have never eaten bone marrow with bleak roe and a bit of mayonaise, this one is worth a trip. The blending of the bone marrow melting in your mouth with the saltiness of the roe is quite sensational. However, it needs a different wine than champagne, and I know that the sommeliers are very capable at finding the right one. We had this dish served by the same crew at Retardo, a pop-up restaurant that was run as a prequel to Grill del Mundo in the fall of 2014. Finally, we had a platter of sashimi, with very fresh, lovely fish.

The master chef in the downstairs kitchen is Kalle Grafström, whom we have followed from restaurant to restaurant for 15 years now. We first met him at Café Japan, where he was a sushi chef. Next, we found him running Dozo, a restaurant of his own out in the suburb of Örgryte. While he managed to fill it with customers, it was too small to be a viable business. Still, it was where I had the best squid of my life. Next, he spent a summer working Brännö Värdshus, and even though it was quite a few years ago, people sill talk about the summer when the food there was exceptional. After a few years, first as a private chef and then a chef and kitchen manager at St Jörgens Park resort, he spent a summer running Oceanen, serving beer and hearty Normandy food. After that followed Retardo, where they had a different menu every night the restaurant was open, trying out recipies for the opening of Grill del Mundo. Kalles cooking is based on his superb knowledge of how to find the freshest and best ingredients, especially fish and shellfish. His dishes are not complex, but he expertly blends fish or meat with asian style sauces for astonishing effects. He makes his own kimchi. His blend of tastes strongly remind me of Japan and Korea, but there is a clear Scandinavian touch as well as a personal touch to his cooking.

Despite the problems getting the right beverages, we had a wonderful meal. There are many other interesting things on the menu for us to explore, so we will soon be back.